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| Article written by: Dick Savage The following procedures worked
for me installing Transmission Temp, Pyrometer and Boost gauges
on my 99 F250 Super Duty PSD. NOTE: Click in the (Fig _) outlined in blue for the pictures!
Transmission Gauge and Sensor You have two options for mounting the sensor. One is in place of the drain plug (Fig 1) and the other is on the drivers side of the transmission just above the pan and just ahead of the wiring harness that goes into the transmission (Fig 2). Both locations will result in the same temperature readings (I tested this to be sure). Both will be bathed in transmission fluid when the vehicle is either running or shut off. The drain plug is 1/2x20 (UNF) and the side plug is 1/8x27 (NPT). ISSPRO makes sensors to fit both. If you use the pan drain plug option you must use the plastic washer from the drain plug to prevent the possibility of leaking. The head of the sensor is smaller than the head of the drain plug and hence some of the washer will be visible around the sensor head. No problem though, I never experienced any leaking while the sensor was installed. The side plug option will require a wrap or two of Teflon tape to ensure no leaking (Fig 3). When removing the drain plug, you will need an extra set of hands if you do not want to drain the transmission. As you remove the plug, have someone hold their thumb over the hole while you switch the washer and prepare to install the sensor. When removing the side plug, transmission fluid will run out, but you can control it with your finger as you remove the plug and replace it with the sensor (don’t forget a couple of wraps of Teflon tape around the sensor threads before you remove the plug). DIS NOTE: While using teflon tape is a common procedure you have to be careful that the sendor does ground - the tape could in some cases depending on the installer cause it not to ground... The required wire size to run from the sensor to the gauge is listed in the instructions with the gauge (I use 16 gauge). Run the wire along the wiring harness for the transmission (Figs1&2 see above), up into the engine compartment on the driver’s side so you come out next to the brake fluid fill housing. Located in the wiring harness, next to the firewall in this area, you will find four wires that terminate. They and are put there by Ford for additions that require electrical connections (like this) through the firewall. Connect the sensor wire to one of these wires (Fig 4). Remove the panel cover below the steering wheel (Fig 5) and located the other end of the four wires. They should be on the far right of the opening. Tap into the same color wire that you used in the engine compartment and attach the wire to the proper gauge post. The transmission gauge will require a 12V, key-on source. I used the black plug that was located around the center bottom of the access opening (Fig 6). The 12V, key-on wire on this plug is red with a yellow stripe (use a voltmeter to verify if you want to be sure). If the gauge has a light for night use, it should receive its power from the light switch. CAUTION: If installing multiple gauge lights, note that all the bulbs are not the same dimensional size. Be sure to keep the right bulb with the right gauge. The light switch is very simple to remove. To release the switch, turn the lights on, Pull the light switch out and push a small screwdriver into the small hole in the bottom until it releases (Fig 7). Remove the switch and rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall. Rotate the switch to turn the lights off, push in on the switch, then turn the switch so the lights will come on and turn it back to shut the lights off. The entire light switch unit should easily pull out from the dash…WOW, some engineer really stayed up late one night to come up with this….slick! The light blue wire with the red strip is the dimmer power line (use a voltmeter to verify if you want to be sure). I found that by attaching a small bare electrical clip terminal on the end of my tap wire, I could insert it into the back of the connector hole for the dimming wire for a good connection and thereby avoid splicing into the small wire. A wrap or two of electrical tape around the two wires ensured it would stay in place. Replace the light switch unit, rotate the lights to on, pull off the switch, rotate 180 degrees to its normal position and push back on switch as you turn the lights off. Route the dimmer light power tap wire back into the compartment below the steering wheel and used it for all gauge lights. There are several places to attach ground. Easiest is the ground that is located on the far right side of the compartment under the steering wheel (Fig 8). (In the case of the 12V power, the dimmer power and the ground, use all of these as the primary tap wires, running separate wires off of them for each individual gauge requirement). I temporarily mounted all my gauges as indicated (Fig 8) while waiting for the 3 gauge pillar mount to become available. If you intend to move your gauges later as I do, be sure to leave enough excess wire length to reach your gauges when you move them to there new location.
Boost Gauge and Vacuum Line T Tap
The 99 installation is very similar to the 97 installation. Install the T tap into the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the sensor mounted on the front of the heater fan shroud on the passenger side of the engine compartment (Fig 9). The hose has a very heavy wall and has a wire wrap protection around it. Remove the hose from the wire wrap protection about six inches down from the sensor and cleanly cut the line. Slide the T hose clamps on each end of the line and install the T with the 90degree elbow facing toward the sensor and install the clamps (Fig 9). Before installing the gauge line, run it through the wire race just below the hood lip in the back of the engine compartment (Fig 10). Attach the gauge line to the T 90 degree elbow as indicated in the instructions (Fig 11) (be sure not to over tighten the nut and crush the plastic gauge line). Remove the large triangular shaped plug located in the firewall, on the drivers side of the vehicle, just below and to the right of the brake fluid fill housing (Fig 4). It is easier to remove if you first collapse the tab fingers on the passenger side of the firewall. Remove the access panel below the steering wheel (Fig 5) to gain access to the plug tab fingers. Once removed drill a hole large enough to install a rubber grommet that the gauge line will fit snuggly through (If you are installing the pyrometer at this time also, do the same for the pyrometer wire lead). Run the gauge line through the plug and reinstall the plug into the firewall. With the access panel below the steering wheel removed, run the gauge line to the gauge and install (Fig 8) (be careful not to over tighten the attaching nut). If you are only installing this one gauge, follow the directions for installing the gauge light under Transmission Temp Gauge installation. If multiple gauges with lights are been installed, tap light power from the single tap wire run from the light switch. CAUTION: If installing multiple gauge lights, note that all the bulbs are not the same dimensional size. Be sure to keep the right bulb with the right gauge. Some vacuum gauge lights are smaller to prevent interfering with the internal workings of the gauge.
Pyrometer Gauge and Sensor
This
procedure is for installing the sensor on the First, the bad news, You will have to remove the transmission support brace if you must remove the exhaust down pipe to drill the hole for the sensor adapter and to have the sensor adapter welded into place. Before removing the cross support, remove the clamp that holds the exhaust down pipe to the turbo (Fig 12). After loosing the clamp nut, it may be necessary to carefully pry the lips of the clamps from the center with a small screwdriver to remove it. Next, clearly mark the down pipe with the location you want the sensor installed (Fig 13). The transmission must be well supported before you remove the cross brace. There are several options for support including 4x4 blocks cut to length and block and jack combinations. Just be sure to fully support the transmission across a wide footprint both on the ground and the transmission itself. After supporting the transmission, remove the two nuts on the bottom center of the cross brace. Next loosen the three transmission support bolts on the drivers side (Fig 14). Remove all but one of the bolts. Remove the four frame mounting bolts and nuts on the passenger side (Fig 15) (The nuts require an 18mm deep socket to remove….most metric socket sets do not include 18mm sockets). You can use a crescent wrench, but you will bust a least one of your knuckles in the process. Remove the last driver side bolt after you release the wire harness that is attached to the cross brace and then clear the cross brace out of the way. Remove the down pipe flange (Fig 16) that attaches the down pipe to the converter/muffler and slide the down pipe down, back and out to remove. At this point, as an extra measure of insurance, loosely reinstall the cross brace to prevent damage to the transmission incase something causes the support to slip while your out having the down pipe drilled and adapter welded in place (note: the sensor adapter is only threaded on one side for the sensor, so be sure the adapter is welded into the pipe with the thread side up). When reinstalling the down pipe, first, loosely install the flange and then install the down pipe to the turbo. Tighten the flange only after the turbo/down pipe clamp is installed. Reinstall the transmission cross brace in reverse order to disassembly. Run the sensor-to-gauge lead wires through/along the wire race just below the hood lip in the back of the engine compartment (Fig 10). Install the sensor and attach the lead wire per supplied instructions. Remove the large triangular shaped plug located in the firewall, on the drivers side of the vehicle, just below and to the right of the brake fluid fill housing (Fig 4). It is easier to remove the plug if you first collapse the tab fingers on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. Remove the access panel below the steering wheel (Fig 5) to gain access to the plug tab fingers. Once removed, drill a hole large enough to install a rubber grommet that the lead wire will fit snuggly through (If you are installing a boost gauge at this time also, do the same for the vacuum line). Run the lead wire through the plug and reinstall the plug into the firewall. With the access panel below the steering wheel removed, run the lead wire to the gauge and install (be sure to hook the lead wires to the correct gauge terminal as indicated in the instructions provided). If you are only installing this one gauge, follow the directions for installing the gauge light under Transmission Temp Gauge installation. If multiple gauges with lights are been installed, tap light power from the tap wire run from the light switch. CAUTION: If installing multiple gauge lights, note that all the bulbs are not the same dimensional size. Be sure to keep the right bulb with the right gauge. Click here for installation of the thermocouple BEFORE the Turbo.
Isspro Gauges I
Installed Our thanks to Mr. Savage for the time and effort in making this installation guide...
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