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Written
By: I just installed a weld-in pyrometer on my ‘99.5 F350, 4x4, CC, 6spd prior to the turbo in the driver’s side pipe between the manifold and the turbo and I thought I pass along my experiences. I’m only going to cover the removal and installation of the pipe and weld-in sensor since the rest of the installation has been covered in other write-ups. I’m not going to get into whether pre-turbo or post-turbo installation is better; there’s enough on that aspect already too. Firstly, though I was a little nervous at first, the installation was actually quite simple. I decided to remove the pipe for two reasons: 1) I chose a weld-in pyro installation since I thought it would be more durable though others are having success with the clamp-on type (DIS sells both types). 2) I wanted to make SURE no metal shavings got into the pipe though others have drilled the pipe on the vehicle successfully. Tools Needed 12mm socket Pipe Description I chose the driver’s side pipe since it’s much easier to access. The driver’s side pipe between the manifold and the turbo is about 14-16" (guess) and has a slight bend. It has a flared end at the manifold side and a straight end that has a loose fit going into the turbo "Y" casting. The flared end is held to the manifold with a lower pipe casting that is secured with two bolts (10mm bolt head and 12mm nut). The straight end is held into the "Y" casting with an upper pipe casting and sealing ring which are secured using two 10mm bolts. Yes, the seal is reuseable. Pipe Removal I had no problem removing or reinstalling the pipe while laying under my 4x4 vehicle. No need to jack it up or put it on a hoist. First, mark the pipe using a permanent marker where the pyro boss will be installed. I chose a spot about 2" from the manifold. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the upper pipe casting to the turbo "Y" casting. You’ll need one or two extensions, a universal, 10mm socket, and the 3/8" drive wrench. Put some tape around the universal to keep it from falling over while reaching up to the bolts. One bolt is a straight shot. The other bolt requires the universal though the angle wasn’t that bad at all. My truck has 8800 miles and didn’t have any rust on the bolts. They came out easily. Use the 12mm socket and 10mm box wrench to remove the two nuts& bolts that attach the pipe to the manifold. The pipe can then be rotated away from the manifold and dropped out of the vehicle. This was easy to do. No weird angles and adequate clearance is provided. Pyro Sensor Installation Drill a 3/4" hole through the pipe were the mark was placed on the pipe while it was on the vehicle. First use a punch, then start drilling holes using larger bits until 3/4" is achieved. Once the hole is drilled, clean all the ruff edges off the hole inside and outside the pipe with a file or emery cloth. Don’t remove too much material since you want a good fit between the pipe/boss. Clean the pipe out to remove all debris. Line up the boss on the pipe so that the probe will be centered in the pipe when installed. Weld the boss to pipe. WARNING: Make sure the correct side of the boss is facing the pipe. WARNING: Make sure the lower casting at the flared end of the pipe is on prior to welding on the boss. Test for leaks. I put some of my kid’s bubble juice around the weld and blew into the boss while sealing both pipe ends using plastic bags tightly held in place over the ends. If you have a leak around the boss, it will be obvious. Touch up any leaks. I chose to paint the boss and welding bead using high-temp VHT exhaust paint (1500 degrees). Install the large brass fitting into the boss welded on the pipe. Slide the probe into the pipe until the sensor tip is centrally located in the exhaust pipe. Slide the probe seal down and secure the probe with the second/smaller brass fitting. Install the wiring onto the sensor. I used liquid electrical tape around the connections to seal them from the Michigan winter salt. Pipe Installation Place the upper pipe casting and sealing ring onto the pipe. Slide the straight pipe end into the turbo "Y" casting. Rotate the pipe so the flared end is lined up to the exhaust manifold. During this last step, hold the upper casting & sealing ring up close to the "Y" (using the long screwdriver) as you line up the flared end to the manifold using you’re other hand. If you don’t, once the flared end is lined up, you won’t be able to slide the upper casting past a bump in the transmission. Lightly install the nuts/bolts to the manifold to hold pipe in the correct orientation to the manifold. Install the two 10mm bolts to attach the upper casting/sealing ring to the "Y" casting. Install the bolt with straight access first. It’s tough to reach up to start the bolts by hand so put the bolt into the socket and raise it up to the upper casting hole. Use a long screwdriver to hold the upper casting / sealing ring up at the "Y" casting so the bolt can be started (don’t tighten yet). This step takes a ‘little’ patience but isn’t that bad. WARNING: Take care not to crossthread the bolts. Install the other 10mm bolt into the second upper casting bolt hole. Tighten all 4 bolts evenly in steps making sure the pipe is oriented properly. Secure the pyro wire using zip-ties. Keep a ‘little’ bit of slack there to account for engine roll. Summary I hope this helps any of you considering a pyro installation prior to the turbo but were afraid of metal chips getting into the pipe or just worried about the difficulty of taking the pipe off to drill and/or weld it. I can tell you with all honesty that it wasn’t difficult at all. I did the whole job including gauge (boost&pyro) / wiring installation in an afternoon. The pipe can be removed or installed in about 15-20 minutes. For those of you not wishing to weld the pipe, do everything like I did above except drill the appropriate sized whole for the clamp-on style pyro. Now go for it. The peace of mind knowing your exhaust temperature without worrying about metal chips getting into the turbo or some non-constant temperature drop across the turbo will be worth the effort. Keep the temperature at or below 1300F and you should be fine. CS |
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