Author:
Dan Elliott
FastDEW@aol.com
I installed
4 gauges on my A-Pillar a few weeks ago.
1 - Tachometer 0-4K RPM
2 - Pyrometer
3 - Manifold Pressure (Boost)
4 - Transmission Temperature
All gauges were Isspro and I purchased them at DIS in Tx.
I also ordered 2 A-pillar mounts from DIS (Made by Autometer)
so that I could install four gauges. I did some cutting
and shaping on the A-Pillar mounts by heating them and forming
them a little to fit nicely. I also had a doner vehicle
provide me the factory A-Pillar molded plastic cover so
incase I screwed something up It wasn't mine anyway.

I mounted the Tach on the lowest hole with the pyro just
above it. Next up is the Boost then at top is the trans
temp.
All gauges mount pretty easily and the wiring is str8 forward.
It is time consuming though. (Of course I had a hoist so
working underneath is easier). The tach uses two glued on
magnets that are attached to the front balancer on the engine
180 degrees apart from each other. The sensor comes with
a useless bracket, so plan on fabricating your own bracket
for reading the pulses as the magnets come past. The tach
requires you to run two wires from the sensor at the front
of the engine to the tach itself. Also, one of those wires
needs to be t'd and grounded, this can be done easily under
the truck within a few inches of the sensor. The tach also
requires a separate ground and a switched 12V that I found
at the fuse block under the dash.
Next was the pyro, which was the easiest gauge to install.
I pulled the dog house off from inside the van. I purchased
the clamp-on Thermal Couple which is approx. $15 from DIS
(well worth it). While sitting in the passenger seat I drilled
the correct size hole into the turbo down pipe. (I installed
the pyro after the turbo). Then I simply inserted the TC
into the pipe and clamped it on. No problems, very simple.
Then you need to run the wire up into the a-pillar to the
gauge.
With the Boost gauge I purchased the Banks (from DIS) boost
gauge install kit. It comes with a T-Tap that you splice
into the Ford Manifold pressure sensor hose. The instructions
are for the truck not the van, so I guessed at which component
was the factory sensor, then called the dealer to verify
the part number prior to splicing. (It is just above the
battery on the passenger side, mounted to the firewall).
Then run the tubing into the cab and up to the gauge. Be
careful because the tube will kink very easy. I routed my
tubing across the top of the engine compartment with the
factory wire looms in there holders, then I drilled a small
hole in an existing rubber grommet just under the brake
booster and slipped the tube through. Also, be careful not
to over tighten the ferrel fitting on the tubing... this
cost me some time and a ferrel fitting. Although, the kit
included an extra ferrel so I guess I am not the only one
to have done this.

The transmission temp gauge is pretty simple. Switched power
12V, (found at the fuse block again), and ground. Then the
sensor needs to be placed into the transmission. The instructions
say you can place the sensor into the trans pan drain plug.
The only problem, the instructions are for the SuperDuties
and our vans do not have a trans drain plug. (Although I
added one but that is another thread). On the side of the
transmission just above the shift cable is a plug. You can
remove this plug and install the sensor directly into the
transmission. It will be completely covered with trans fluid
and it threads directly into the hole with out any adapters.
Then you attach an 18-gauge wire to the sensor and run it
up to the gauge. Do not use any Teflon tape on the sensor.
The body of the sensor grounds to the transmission and the
tape will cause a poor or no ground situation. It will not
leak without the tape, it is a machined thread.
Getting the wiring from the underside of the van to the
a-pillar is a challenge. I found a simple way to do it.
Run all wiring to the drivers' side of the van, cross over
the frame (between the body and frame) near the drivers'
door. Remove the drivers door jam cover (just pulls up)
and you will find a channel with two rubber grommets. Drill
a hole in one of the grommets (I used the forward one) and
run the wiring up through the grommet and into the channels,
you can now attach the wires to factory looms and run them
up through the kick panel. I used a lot of zip ties and
an under the vehicle I used edel clamps. Be careful not
to get the wires bound up on the parking brake arm or sprocket
and keep them clear of this so they do not ground out over
time. Then with the factory a pillar cover removed (just
pulls off) you will see a slot to the bottom of the dash.
I threaded a coat hanger down through the slot and taped
all of my wiring to the hanger. I then slowly and gently,
(important to not snag factory wiring), pulled the coat
hanger and my wiring up through the slot. Then I was able
to attach the wires to the gauges. I cut holes in the factory
panel and threaded the wires through this panel to the gauges.
As for the mounting of the gauge pillar, it mounts to the
factory cover - Autometer provides small Christmas tree
plugs, I hate those things. I used rivets and a rivet gun
so it would all stay tight. The factory push tabs on the
back of the factory cover are enough to support all four
gauges without any issues.

Lighting - I used a test light to find the Ford wire that
powered the factory instrument panel from the light switch.
I then removed the factory switch and soldered another lead
to this point and used this lead to provide my lighting
power to the new gauges. This provides me with a dimmer
and one switch does all operation. (I also, load tested
the switch to make sure it could handle the draw - no problem).
One other thing, I drilled a small hole near each gauge
and installed a micro toggle switch in each hole, this allows
me to turn on/off each gauge light individually if I want
and leave my Instrument Panel lights on.
The install came out great, it takes about 1 full day for
wiring and it took me about 4 hours to modify the gauge
mounts and get everything set for the install. Cost was
about $500.
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